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How Does She Sail?

Pippo's original email that prompted this answer is pasted in below.

 

From: "Chuck Merrell" <chuckmerrell@iname.com>

To: "Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco" <giuseppe.bianco@asi.it>; "BolgerList" <cnoto@conc.tds.net>; <bolger@egroups.com>

Subject: [bolger] Re: Micro sail area and rig

Date: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 1:43 PM

Dear Pippo,

Around here on days that are decent enough to be on the water, we also

become the "land of light airs", which means that 0-6 knots is pretty

normal. In that kind of breeze, the Micro is definitely logy, but the same

can be said of just about any sail boat unless you're running a gossamer

drifter and light sheets. When the wind increases to the 6-12 range the

Micro sails right along approaching hull speed. The boat will sail itself

with no hand on the tiller for miles on any point above a beam reach. When

you're running in 12 knots all is well unless you get stronger puffs, then

the boat heels sharply (but holds course and doesn't want to round up) and

all in all the feeling is of stability and comfort. Because of the higher

Sail Area/Displacement of the basic sail plan (around 18); you'll want to

think about reefing the main at about 15 or 16, then you're good up to about

25 or 30. After that, drop the mizzen and after that the whole rig and break

out the motor.

I studied the way the Micro sails very carefully, and have concluded that

while the basic sail area is about 20% higher (typical for rig bound

designs) than the average cruising boat, the compensating factor is that the

boat itself is heavier on the waterline than the average, having a D/L of

over 400, and the flat bottom and square chines also contribute with great

form stability. In other words, it's a terrific balancing act and due to

the skill of the designer (given that the builder doesn't radically and

ignorantly change anything).

We'd all like to have a boat that is all things to all conditions, which

means tacking through 60 degrees with hull speed in four knots of wind, but

no properly designed sail plan can achieve that without adding some square

footage (hull speed, not 60 degrees). For those Micro sailors who really do

want sharp light air performance, I'd suggest that they rig a big drifter

from used light weight spinnaker cloth. It'd be easy and economical to do

and should give the OOMPH needed AND be easy to handle if done right.

Certainly a drifter wouldn't have much influence on performance hard on the

wind, but then the Micro isn't famous for being particularly weatherly.

Having said that though, I was never disappointed and in average conditions

was usually able to almost point as high as the other sailboats you see out

there. I remember once encountering a Pacific Seacraft 25 footer designed

by Crealock. I couldn't keep up with the boat in speed due to the

difference in waterline length, but pointed about as high. I also had the

same experience with a medium sized Catalina--like maybe 22' to 25' LOA.

Cheers!

Chuck

***********************************

CHUCK MERRELL

MERRELL WATERCRAFT

P. O. Box 80264

Seattle, WA 98108-0264

(206) 764-1298

Email: chuck@boatdesign.com

Web Site:http://www.boatdesign.com

**********************************

----- Original Message -----

From: "Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco" <giuseppe.bianco@asi.it>

To: "BolgerList" <cnoto@conc.tds.net>; <bolger@egroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 3:55 AM

Subject: Micro sail area and rig 

> Hi all - I've been reading here and there complains about the Micro sail

> area as being considered too small with respect to its displacement.

> Now, looking at the numbers, it doesn't seem the case to me. For

> example, Micro's Sail Area to Displacement Ratio is about 18: it's much

> larger than the Flicka's (12), or even than Jacques Mertens' Vagabond+

> (17), George Buehler's Pogo's, and many others. Now, where is the

> problem? Can't it be due to poorly shaped sails in some boats? By the

> way, what are the general indications to make a proper Micro main? And

> what about the mizzen: should it be flat or cambered (PCB's indications

> would be great here)? Best, Pippo

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